Thursday, August 25, 2005



Buck Harper

Throughout my life, I have conducted many biology field trips with students into the Potomic Highlands of West Virginia. It is a glorious part of the state. Another special Appalachian person from the Potomac Highlands is Buck Harper. Buck was an individual that made each field trip memorable for all. We would stop by the Mouth of Seneca (now renamed Seneca Rocks) not only to climb Seneca Rocks but also to visit with Mr. Buck Harper. His love of the story and of people was obvious in the first few minutes one met him. He was outgoing and some of my students might have described him as loud and brash.

Buck Harper owned the land upon which Seneca Rocks are found. In 1969, the federal government “purchased” from Buck one of the best-known land marks in West Virginia. Buck, of course, would present a long dissertation on how the federal government “stole” the rocks from him.

The rocks are a magnificent formation rising nearly 900 feet above the North Fork River. These sandstone rocks with exposed crags of Tuscarora quartzite have long been a favorite with rock climbers. Facing the rocks and located at the junction of Routes 55 and 28 is Harper’s Old Country Store. Operated by the Harpers since 1902, the old country store is now operated by the son of Buck Harper. It is much different from the store that we knew when Buck was living. The store was a collection of items from the past arranged chaotically. He sold groceries, gasoline, and souvenirs to the tourists. The gas pumps were on the side of the store and he refused to cut a door into the building so he could access the pumps readily. I noticed it was not long after his passing that an opening appeared in the old country store directly beside the pumps. I thought, “Buck would not have approved.”

One of his favorite items in the store was the jar of pickled bear paws that he kept around as a conversation piece. It was the fodder for starting a litany of stories. He told of a fellow who stopped by the store with a bear in the back of his truck. He wanted to check his bruin at Buck’s store so that it would be registered as a legal kill. Seems Buck and the locals went out to place the tag on the critter when the “dead” bear got up, growled, and headed out of the truck. Seems the locals were also moving at a fast rate!

He loved conversation and to tell stories. Buck was a large, burly man who always had a pocket organizer in his blue shirt. His head was always adorned with a ball cap that a passing tourist has given him. He loved to chew tobacco and one would commonly see tobacco dribbling down his unshaven face. His claim to fame was not only his winning personality but also his famous West Virginia Hand Shake. He delighted in shaking visitors hands with the greatest amount of pressure possible - that could bring the strongest man to his knees. I have arthritis and learned early on to by-pass the handshake and greet Buck with a “most manly” hug even if I did get a little tobacco stained in the process.

I miss the stories. I miss seeing the unsuspecting tourist’s faces when they first experienced the famous West Virginia handshake. Yes, I even miss seeing those bear paws!

2 Comments:

Blogger Paul Harper said...

Jim,
What a great post. Thanks for the memories of the wonderful character and remembered stories.

I was a young man when I first met Buck on my first vist to the Mouth of the Seneca. Upon my meeting via a West Virginia handshake, I held right on, maintaining the best grip I could muster and a harty "Hello Buck, my name is Paul Harper" giving him the big tug and a boustrouss "Ha, ha, ha, West Virginia handshake!".

He loved it. Laughing, he made me assure him I was "not one of those in the horse thievin' Harper bunch" I loved returning to see him several times and have been back to the store a number of times over the years after his passing.

You are right, he would not have it approved how son and later others changed the way he had it.

Thanks again.

9:21 PM  
Blogger Larry said...

Around 1976 I made my first climbing trip to Mouth of Seneca and checked in at Buck's store for a campsite spot he kept across the road.

I had heard about Buck's famous handshake, I had a pretty good grip myself and I made sure he didn't get leverage on me. After what seemed like a minute of a stalemate, Buck broke off the handshake and grinned. Then he said " I think I like you, boy". He gave me a good greeting every time after, but we didn't shake hands.

9:14 PM  

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